It was a hot noon in Mumbai but that didn’t deter Farzana Contractor – bon vivant, to get into the kitchen and don her cook’s apron. For, it is at this time of the year that she makes pickles that her friends and family look forward to. Mango, tamarind and a ‘magical’ one too, one learns, made with a special variety of achaar kairis from Byculla. What one must never do, states Farzana is to wash these mangoes at home. “Water is like a poison to them, instead just wipe the mangoes clean.”

The mango pieces, cut and sprinkled with turmeric and salt are to be dried in the sun first. “For soft mango pieces, two hours is enough, or if you want really hard pieces, keep them for two days.” But there’s an old wives’ tale to be followed here: “Start your pickling process before sundown,” counsels Farzana, “It works for me.”

For a simple mango pickle all one needs is rye ki dal, methi dal and chilli powder. The oil to be used is mustard. “This lends the real flavour to the pickle,” she explains. When the oil is hot enough, not smoking hot though, she cautions, one must add the methi and rye dal and gently stir it with a wooden spoon. Once done, cool it and add the chilli powder.

“The amount you add depends on how spicy you want it,” she says. This must be mixed with the mangoes and left for about two days.

“Now add more mustard oil taking care to see that you don’t press the oil into the pieces,” she says. The ‘magical pickle’ is quite instant. One has to add methi dana, rye dal, dhania zeera powder and saunf along with kalonji or onion seeds (according to Islam kalonji is believed to contain cure for all diseases except death) to the oil and cook it on a medium flame. “Ten minutes and your pickle is ready,” smiles Farzana, adding, “It goes perfectly with dal-chawal and kadhis.”

Nutritionist Naini Setalvad makes several pickles, from chhunda to golwa that has methi, red chilli, raw mango and sea salt as well as a delicious dahi mango variety. The latter is quite easy. “Just beat the curd to a smooth consistency, add raw mango and temper it with very little oil. Then add mustard seeds and urad dal, crushed groundnuts and garnish it with coriander,” explains Naini.

While mango is the fruit of the season, raw mangoes are available almost all year through. So why not rustle up a few pickles yourself to enjoy until the next summer?